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Folds: Group Exhibition

Past exhibition
19 May - 2 July 2021
  • Overview
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  • Press
  • Works
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  • Sydney Albertini, Home, 2021
  • Noémie Goudal  Cascade, 2009  C-print  111 x 140 cm  Edition of 7 plus 2 APs
  • Richard Learoyd  Green, 2019  Unique ilfochrome photograph  114 x 95 cm (unframed)  140 x 120 cm (framed)
  • Bill Brandt, Circus boy, 1933
  • Yoon Young Hur  The Fold, #21, 2021  Grogged sculpture in clay with matte white glaze (hand-poured)  36.8 x 44.6 x 16.5 cm
  • Claire Kerr  Monument, 2009  Oil on linen on wood  16 x 12 cm
  • Carla Cascales Alimbau  Mediterranean waves II, 2021  Organic resin on linen  162 x 114 cm, 16Kg
  • Ann-Marie James  Classical Greece, Frontispiece: Leto, 2017  Ink on paper  37 x 29.5 cm (43 x 35.5 cm)
  • Álvaro Negro  Manto II, 2021  Acrylic on canvas  41 x 36 cm unframed
  • Jeff McMillan  Untitled (pink H - 101), 2018-19  Oil on linen, tacks  93 x 78 cm
  • Paul de Monchaux  Intrados, 1996  Purbeck spangle limestone  48 x 28 x 25 cm  18.9 x 11 x 9.8 in
  • Yves Marchand & Romain Meffre  Exit 3, Casino Theater, Bronx, NY, 2009  Ultrachrome print  150 x 190  Edition of 6 plus 2 Artist's Proofs  Series: American Theaters
  • John Stewart, Chinese Silk, Paris, 1996
  • John Stewart  Black Sea, Jaipur, 1996  Fresson print  79 x 62 cm (98 x 70 framed)  Edition 2 of 8
  • Bridget Riley  Untitled (from La Lune En Rodage), 1965  Screenprint on paper  Image: 29.5 x 29.3 cm  Sheet: 31.9 x 31.9 cm  Framed: 37 x 37 x 5 cm  Numbered edition 9 of 200 plus 10 AP
  • Orsina Sforza, Telone, 2013
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Tristan Hoare is delighted to present FOLDS, an exhibition curated with Flora Hesketh and Omar Mazhar and dedicated to the depiction of folds and drapery. FOLDS aims to bring into focus a subject which has challenged and interested artists throughout history, but often goes unnoticed. Charting its metamorphosis from the robes of religious figures in ancient sculptures to its emergence in contemporary art, this exhibition aims to reflect on the role of tumbling textures and flowing fabric. 

 

Traditionally, drapery studies were an important exercise in understanding the representation of light and shade and the transition from two to three dimensionality. Leonardo da Vinci was a notable propagator of such artistic training, stating in his writings the importance of having an awareness of the body beneath the fabric. In this manner, drapery served to cover, but also reveal, the human form. By depicting a swirl of silk dancing around a figure’s ankles, an artist was able to imbue life and movement into his otherwise frozen characters. 

 

Centuries later, the subject continues to be investigated by contemporary artists such Christo and Jeanne-Claude, whose giant folds have transformed iconic buildings and places. Others such as Orsina Sforza and Alison Watt explore the possibility of drapery’s independent existence. Bordering on  the abstract, their materials appear to exert energy in an autonomous manner. In Watt’s compositions, the sinuous curves of the ever-looping fabric take on a sensual and erotic role, and her iridescent handling of paint maintains a calm composure reminiscent of Old Master paintings. 

 

This sensuousness which is found in various depictions of drapery is accentuated in a photograph by Richard Learoyd of a woman dressing or undressing. Its alluring power relies on the contrast between skin and fabric, or the exposed and the concealed. With artists Ritsue Mishima and Yoon Young Hur drapery takes on a life of its own. Moulded in clear glass, the cascading pleats in Mishima’s sculpture transform drapery into an organic and biomorphic being, made to be appreciated from all angles. Meanwhile, Yoon Young Hur’s unfolding blank scroll seems to float on the wall, accentuating the tactile surface and volume of the unravelling form. 

 

FOLDS is not an academic survey of the history of drapery. It aims to display some of its skilled manifestations from ancient cultures to contemporary artists whose continued focus on the subject serves to revitalise its long-celebrated beauty and history. 

 

 

Participating artists:

Sydney Albertini, Carla Cascales Alimbau, Helene Appel, Flavie Audi, Parme Baratier, Abraham Bloemaert, Bill Brandt, Christo and Jeanne-Claude, Paolo Colombo, Mick Cooper, Lydia Gifford, Noémie Goudal, Marcus Harris, Yoon-Young Hur, Ann-Marie James, Miriam Johnson, Claire Kerr, Richard Learoyd, Alice von Maltzahn, Margaret Mann, Yves Marchand & Romain Meffre, Jeff McMillan, Ritsue Mishima, Paul de Monchaux, Mari-Ruth Oda, Álvaro Negro, Carolyn Quartermaine, Bridget Riley, Peter Schlesinger, Orsina Sforza, Malick Sidibé, John Stewart and Alison Watt. 

Download Press Release

Related artists

  • Sydney Albertini

    Sydney Albertini

  • Malick Sidibé

    Malick Sidibé

  • Mick Cooper

    Mick Cooper

  • Yves Marchand & Romain Meffre

    Yves Marchand & Romain Meffre

  • Flavie Audi

    Flavie Audi

  • Paolo Colombo

    Paolo Colombo

  • Parme Baratier

    Parme Baratier

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